Best Places To Eat In Jaipur
This is a food story about my double visit to Jaipur in a gap of 10 days and a guide to the city’s best food.
The lovely folks at Jaipur Women Blog invited Gurjas and me as ‘Guest Speakers’ to their Bloggy Boogie event, where we spoke about all things ‘food’. As it was a long weekend, with much excitement we had planned to stay back and explore the delicious food on offer in the Pink city. Unfortunately, Gurjas caught viral fever and I went down with stomach bug. So, we had to cut short our trip and fly back to Delhi. Consequently, for the next few days, I roamed around with a grumpy face and a terrible feeling of having missed out on Kachoris and Lal Maas.
Having lived in Jodhpur, I have a special love for Pyaz Kachori and Mirchi Bada. I pounce upon every opportunity to indulge in any of these two. Therefore, my grumpiness was justified.
However, thanks to Gurjas, who took upon himself to plan another trip. And it was one epic food extravaganza! We endured the spiciest food together, fell in love with sweet Lassi and discovered the city, which we can unanimously tag as our favourite.
So, here’s what we loved eating. I am sure you will too.
Address: Panch Batti, M.I. Road, Jaipur, Rajasthan
Cost for two– Rs. 800-1,000 for two
This iconic eatery located on Jaipur’s MI Road, needs no introduction. As soon as I entered the restaurant, its vibe reminded me of Embassy Restaurant in Connaught Place, Delhi. With old world hospitality, butlers and a multi-cuisine menu, it exuded the charm of an old eatery. This was our first stop and we kicked off our food trail with Lal Maas, Garlic Naan, Onion Naan and Lachcha Parantha. Why so many breads? Well, they served generous portion of the curry. Cooked in ghee, the spicy curry made with green chilies, red chilies, onion, kachri, garam masala and tender mutton pieces, tasted divine! The thick fine gravy predominantly tasted spicy but it also had a deep meaty flavour. I was told that the recipe had remained exactly the same, since the restaurant started serving this dish. The restaurant, which was started in 1949, still enjoys patronage from locals and tourists alike. Lal Maas here is a must have.
Address: Opposite Niro’s, M.I. Road, Jaipur, Rajasthan
Cost: Rs. 25 for a small glass
Looking for relief after the hot Lal Maas? Head to Lassiwala, located right opposite Niro’s. Selling only Lassi since 1944, this place is a lassi lover’s heaven. Even though, I don’t like Sweet Lassi, I fell in love with it here. I saw trays of curd come out to the counter one after the another. After removing the malai (the fat) on top, the curd is hand beaten in a lota. The thick, sweet lassi topped with malai (fat) is perfect for a sunny day and even more so if you have it just after Lal Maas at Niro’s. It softens the effects of chili, whilst being simply delicious. Beware of the phony Lassiwala shops. Make sure you go to one, which has a black granite signage on top reading ‘Since 1944 and Kishan Lal Govind Narain Agarwal’. Believe me, this is one thing you can’t miss in Jaipur.
On The Way
Address: G7-G8, Ganesham Tower, Amrapali Circle, Vaishali Nagar, Jaipur
Cost: Rs. 500 for two.
A humble little eatery that serves Mutton Curry, Chicken Curry, Chapati, Lassi and Chanch – just what you need, to savour the best meal in Jaipur. Lavanya, Jaipur Women Blog’s Blogger-In-Chief and a dear friend, took Gurjas and me to this place. Lavanya’s friend, Aman, had made a solid recommendation for this one. As soon as the plate of food arrived, the aroma was such that I didn’t even wait for Gurjas to finish shooting the food.
The slow cooked spicy mutton curry, prepared in ghee, along with red chilies, onions and khadha masala made me salivate as soon as it was served.
The unique thing was the chapatis had been dipped inside the curry and served with raw onions and green chilies. I was told that the Rajputs eat their meat curries this way. The rotis become soft and spicy as they are dipped inside the curry itself. The onions lend crunch and green chilies add more hotness. Ghanshyam Singh Shekhwat, who runs this place, himself cuts his meat and prepares it fresh. I can vouch for it as the mutton just melted in my mouth and the chicken was juiciest I have ever had. I will forever be grateful to Lavanya and Aman, who introduced me to Rajputana style Rajasthani delicacies. This was a meal to remember and one of the best I have ever had.
Address: Achrol House, Jacob Road, Civil Lines, Jaipur
Cost: Rs. 800-1000 for two
Located at the beautiful Achrol House, Spice Court is your haunt for Junglee Maas. It’s as fierce as it sounds. Deep red in colour, the gravy for this mutton preparation had whole dried red chilies in every bite. Chunks of garlic, big slices of onions and red chilies, are all this delicious dish had. The sweetness of the onions helped cut through the heat of red chilies in the gravy, and provided much needed relief. The garlic added a pungent earthy flavour, making the rustic traditional dish truly exotic. This was hotter than the Lal Maas and also a personal favourite amongst the two. Also, I loved the minimalistic, yet regal atmospherics of the place, which belongs to the royal Chandela family from Udaipur.
The Baradari Mahal at Hotel Diggi Palace
Address: Hotel Diggi Palace, Mahavir Marg, Sangram Colony, C Scheme, Jaipur
Cost: Rs. 1500 for two
One of the prettiest places to visit in Jaipur, Diggi Palace is where you’ll find peacock dancing in the lawn and birds chirping. The quintessential Rajasthani architecture and decorative is prominent. And, although, the place offers typical Rajasthani meal, I ended up having a regular Cheese sandwich and fresh lime, as I went there after my meal at Niro’s. The sandwiches were really good and gave me a fair idea that this place can be your perfect stop for evening nibbles. Some lovely snacks, in a scenic setting, what more do you want?
Rawat Mishthan Bhandar
Address: Opposite Polo Victory Cinema, Station Road, Sindhi Camp, Jaipur
Cost: Rs. 350 for two
No Jaipur food expedition can be complete without a visit to this place. A childhood favourite, even blindfolded, I can identify a Pyaaz Kachori from Rawat in one bite. Also their Mirchi Bada is exceptionally good. With a thin besan coating and some generous potato filling seasoned with chilies, salt, amchoor and heeng, it’s an unmatchable treat for your tastebuds. Head over to Rawat Mishthan bhandar located on the station road and indulge in Mirchi Bada, Pyaaz kachori, Ghevar, Mawa Kachori, Makhaniya Lassi and some delicious Rajasthani namkeen mixtures. They also have variety of mithais, for those with a sweet tooth.
Ramchandra Kulfi Bhandar
Address: Opposite Yaadgar (King Edward Memorial), Pink City, Jaipur
Cost: Rs. 60 for two
‘I am not a Kulfi fan’, is what I won’t say in future. Once you have kulfi at Ramchandra Kulfi Bhandar, it will change your life. It’s the best, creamiest kulfi you’ll ever have. Aman, Lavanya, Gurjas and I went there after our dinner at On The Way. Even though I was stuffed, I finished the kulfi, as if there was no tomorrow. Not overtly sweet, this kulfi had a good share of mawa, dry fruits and milk. Besides, it’s also garnished with saffron that makes it even more delicious. I never imagined, I would ever go gaga over a kulfi, but going to Ramchandra Kulfi Bhandar has changed that forever.
Tiwari Kolkata Chaat Bhandar
Contact: 9950744652, 9887608098
Cost: Rs. 200 for two
Originally from Uttar Pradesh, Tiwari Ji has also lived in Kolkata. So, having lived in two major destinations known for their street food, no wonder, his roadside thel was a great discovery! Though, hugely popular for Childa, Kanji Bada and Papri Chaat, it’s the Dahi Bada at Tiwari ji’s thela, that’s an absolute masterpiece! Made with mixed lentils (predominantly hari moong) the bada is soft and delicious by itself. Topped with sweet cool curd, mint chutney, Rajasthan’s famous lehsun (garlic) chutney, saunth and spicy black grams, this Dahi bada is unlike any other Dahi Bada I have ever had. Childa made with black gram flour, onions, chili and served with three different types of of curd, lehsun chutney, and kale chole was also delicious. I was told his stock doesn’t last for long even on weekdays. I noticed swarms of customers eating here or getting their dishes packed. Once again, my favourite Lavanya and Aman had taken me to this place and I can’t thank them enough.
Address: B 18 & 19, Janta Store, Bapu Nagar, Jaipur
Cost: Rs. 400 for two
If you happen to love eggs, this can be your food heaven. A popular eatery at Bapu Nagar, run by Sanjay Uncle, whose claim to fame is participating in Masterchef India. This place and the crazy egg preparations reminded me of Rahul Eggs in Delhi. After much deliberation I ordered a Moroccan Omelet, which was recommended by Sanjay Uncle himself. The cheese and mayonnaise laden omelet served with bread and lehsun chutney was far from Moroccan, but tasted good, nevertheless. If you love crazy street food, do visit Sanjay Omelet.
Pani Puri at Hawa Mahal
Address: Infront of Hawa Mahal entrance, Pink City, Jaipur
Cost: Rs. 20 for two
I am a huge Golgappa fan, but could never really develop a liking for Pani Puri. However, I really enjoyed the spicy, tangy, crunchy deliciousness of Balaji Ki Famous Pani Puri. Even a bunch of Japanese tourists were seemingly enjoying their share of this Pani puri. One of them even asked me, whether the green chili chutney, put inside the puri was wasabi? I laughed and explained each ingredient to them. I think the Pani Puri tasted even better because I met these lovely people and shared a good laugh.
Address: 41, Johri Bazaar, Jaipur, Rajasthan, India
Cost: Rs. 200-300
When I was a kid, my parents would always order Marwari Namkeen in bulk. Since then I have always been fond of spicy namkeen and Khatta Meetha mixtures. Hence, when I discovered Namkeen Ghar in Pink city, it felt like I was in candy land. I wanted to try different flavours and buy as many packets as possible. Mogar Pudina, Tamater Sev, Lehsun, Neembu Lacha – they had everything that can make your evening tea, a lavish affair. Besides, they also had a variety of chatpata snacks like Tricolour Papad made of Chana, Moong and Pudina, Anardana Chooran and Pickles. They even sell the very famous and my all time favourite, Karachi Biscuits.
Dzurt Patisserie and Café
Address: Achrol House, Jacob Road, Civil Lines, Jaipur
Cost: Rs. 500 for two
I went to Dzurt right after I had Junglee Maas at Spice Court. Located just besides Spice Court, Dzurt belongs to Tejaswi Chandela, daughter of Kuldeep Singh Chandela and alumnus of Le Cordon Blu, Paris. Pavlova, Almond Cake, Fruit tart, Banoffee Pie, Nutella Cheesecake, the patisserie has lots on offer. You could also enjoy the delicious All Things Chocolates here. The beautiful seating over looking the lawn is where you can sit and indulge in some sinfully sweet treats.
Tapri – The Tea House
Address: B4 E, 3rd Floor, Surana Jewellers, Opposite Central Park, C Scheme, Jaipur
Cost: Rs. 800 for two.
Tapri is Jaipur’s ‘cool adda’. Courtesy its nonchalant vibe, quirky menu and pocket friendly dishes, it’s, perhaps, the busiest eatery in town. The rooftop café overlooking the central park may remind you of a cool café in Hauz Khas Village. Listening to Hindi songs from the early 2000’s, we quickly ordered for Jaipur Maggi, Lebanese Khakra Pizza and Vada pav. My favourite amongst the three was Lebanese Khakra Pizza. As bizarre as it may sound, the crunchy Khakra tasted good with hummus. Topped with tomatoes, peppers and feta cheese, it was delicious. Jaipur Maggi had red chilies and Gurjas quite liked it. Vada Pav, however, was a bit disappointing. You can chose form a huge variety of teas as well. Overall, if you’re looking to chill and go for a lazy breakfast, head over to Tapri.
Curious Life Coffee Roasters
Address: P 25, Yudhisthir Marg, Near Deer Park, C Scheme, Jaipur
Cost: Rs. 500 for two
Being the first coffee roasters in Jaipur, Curious Life has a huge variety on offer. As the name suggests, they roast their own coffee. Since I don’t take coffee, Gurjas ordered his favourite Cappuccino and quite loved it. The sandwich, however, was an absolute let down. Probably we should have ordered muffins or waffles, which seemed like favourites. A popular hub for caffeine lovers and those who love to read, the coffee shop also acts as a co-working space.
Address: C 11, 2nd Floor, KK Square, C Scheme, Jaipur
Cost: Rs. 800 for two.
Fresh, fuss free and delicious, the food at Anokhi Café simply can’t be missed. I went to there while I was recovering from a bad stomach. The fresh organic food felt like a safe bet. We ordered for Salad with Feta Cheese and Onion with Kalamata Oil, Fig Tapenade on crostini, Panini with Rocket, Mozzarella seasoned with English mustard and a Carrot Cake. I loved the salad and Panini, but the rich carrot cake stole my heart. Even though it was overloaded with raisins, the moist, spicy carrot cake topped with the creamiest tangy cream cheese, tasted luscious. The best Carrot Cake I have had at any café. Do visit if you want a break from spicy Rajasthani Food.
Mi Casa Su Casa
Address: C 82B, Chaitanaya Marg, C Scheme, Jaipur
Cost: Rs. 800 for two
Mi Casa Su Casa literally means My House is your House. Aptly named, it’s actually located in a vintage style house, with a mix of Mediterranean and English décor. The floral upholstery, white tables, open seating and home like vibe, instantly put you at ease. This is where Lavanya took me, when we first met. Not only did we enjoy delicious Penne Arrabiata and a Thin Crust Pizza here, but also spoke about food for hours. It’s the perfect place to visit when all you want is good food with a bit of fun.
Apart from these places, I enjoyed Kachoris at Bagadiya Bhawan. Other favourites are Handi for Lal Maas, Laxmi Mishthan Bhandar for Kachoris and Mirchi Badas, Chokhi Dhani for traditional Rajasthani vegetarian food and Dal Bati Choorma and Chaat at Bapu Bazaar for Bombay Grilled sandwich, Pav Bhaji and Chana Zor Garam.
Phew, 3 days and so much food. I remember when I visited Mussoorie, I complained about not having enough options to eat local Garhwali food. However, Jaipur on the other hand, had so much local food to indulge in. Even if the restaurants had Multi-cuisine menu, majority of them served local delicacies such as Lal Maas, Junglee Maas, Safed Maas, Kachoris, Mirchi Badas, Dal Bati, Gatte and Ker Sangri. And I couldn’t be happier about it.
My next story will feature Homemade Dal Bati Churma, Gatte and Mirchi ke Tapori that I had at my homestay. Stay tuned.