Best Places to eat in Bhendi Bazaar – Bohri Mohalla | Mumbai

Best Places to eat in Bohri Mohalla
Best Places to eat in Bohri Mohalla
Best Places to eat in Bohri Mohalla

Must eats at Bohri Mohalla, Mumbai | Ramzan Special

Mumbai, Monsoons and Bhendi Bazaar – my Eid this year, couldn’t have had better ingredients to cook up the perfect story. Being from Delhi, I was well versed with the celebratory vibes of Old Delhi and Zakir Nagar during Ramzan and Eid.

So this year, I packed my bags, boarded the train and embarked on a food adventure in Mumbai’s Bohri Mohalla’s Bhendi Bazaar. As I entered lanes of Bohri Mohalla, I was greeted by the sound of frying Malpuas in hot oil, the sight of putting kebabs on Seekh and the smell of saffron from the Phirni.

As humidity was at its peak, I decided to cool it down with some cold masala beverages at Idris Cold drinks. Also, that’s where I had decided to meet my friend Zeba, who lives in the same locality. As usual I had self-invited myself to her place and luckily for me she and her loving family welcomed us (Gurjas and me) with open arms. While we did eat delicious home cooked Bohri Food at her place, she took me around and introduced me to delightful dishes like Patvelia, Chana Bateta, Ragda, Chicken Patra, Russian Cutlets, Baida Roti and much more in the market area.

Some of the dishes that caught my fancy were:

Patvelia – a traditional Bohri dish with richness of different flavours. Cocoyam leaves rolled and coated with chickpea flour, before they’re steamed. Slow cooked along with meat, spices and lots of oil, its served hot and best enjoyed with Roti. During Ramzan, many people eat it for Iftari.

Chana Bateta – Boiled black gram mixed in gravy made of onions, tamarind – jaggery sauce, mint chutney, spices and onions is mixed with boiled potatoes.

Ragda – Chickpea mixed with a tangy tamarind sauce, spices, raw onions, and coriander. Unlike Ragda Pattice, there is no pattice here and you enjoy the Ragda on its own.

And here’s what I discovered about the places that one MUST eat at in Bohri Mohalla:

Shabbir’s Tawakkal Sweets

Cost for two: Rs 150

Address: 26/28, Khara Tank Road, Bohri Mohalla, Byculla, Mumbai

This famous sweet shop is known for dolling out tons of Malpua and Phirni (also available in Mango and Kesar flavour). during Ramzan. The shop has been running since 1945 and is hugely popular for having quality desserts that people from all across the city like to indulge in. Mawa Jalebi, Rabri, Khajaa, Aflatoon and Dhodhi Halwa, they have many such sweets to entice you.

Haji Tikka Corner

Cost for two: Rs 150 – 200

Address: 76, Raudat Tahera Street, Khara Tank Road, Bohri Mohalla, Bhendi Bazaar, Byculla, Mumbai

I feel the aroma of barbeque has the power to seduce you into eating way more than you actually can. I am not exaggerating. At Haji Tikka, they had carts of Kebabs coming in for the final cook, while their loyal customers waited eagerly for their fill of the juicy tikkas. Garlic Chicken, Hara Chicken and many more such varieties are available here. Though I was a bit vary of it, considering the obvious use of food colour, but nevertheless gave it a shot, only for the love of kebabs. And I was mighty pleased with the Chicken Achari Tikka and Boti kebab.

Jilani Fast Food Corner

Cost for two: Rs 150

Address: 6, Sana Manzil, Khara Tank Road, Bhori Mohalla, Byculla, Mumbai

The corner spot for rich Baida Roti, Chicken Roll and Naan Chaap. Zeba swears by the food here and she made sure we had our share of deliciousness from here. The hugely popular Baida Roti was tasty and it reminded me of Moghlai Parotha that I used to eat in Kolkata. The Chicken Roll had a nice chicken filling, with a hint of Chinese flavours we’re used to in India. It did taste delicious. The Naan Chaap was made in bread that tasted more like a Kulcha, the locals also call it Naan. The juicy filling and slight tanginess in the bread made for an interesting combination. People were queuing up and rightfully so. This was their fried treat on a rainy day and who wouldn’t like that.

Taj Ice cream

Cost for two: Rs 160

Address: 36 Near JJ Hospital, Bohri Mohalla, Khara Tank Road, Bhendi Bazar, Mumbai

Established in 1887, this has to be my favourite spot in the entire Bohri Mohalla. Sans any artificial colours or preservatives, the ice creams here are hand churned and made with real fruits. In Mumbai, the Delhiite in me was certainly going crazy over Alphonso Mangoes. And, here I was having freshly made Mango Ice-cream and loving the chunks of real fruit in it. With humidity nearly killing me, this was just the respite I needed. I absolutely loved the ice cream and the warm hospitality here. I also had Musk Melon ice cream, which was equally delightful. I have had many ice creams across the country, but none like here. Do yourself a favour, come here and eat these sinful ice creams to your heart’s content.

Idris Cold Drinks

Cost for two: Rs 50

Address: Bhendi Bazaar, Bohri Mohalla, Mumbai

Available in different flavours and colour, the soft drinks with masala, can bring back some childhood memories. I saw many people stopping by to get packets of drinks packed to be carried with them. Kala Khatta, Sikonjee, Special Idris, Variyali, Faalsa, Rimzim and more such flavours are available at their little shop. My favourite was Special Idris with its rosey flavour and also Kala Khatta.

Surti’s 12 Handi

Cost for two: Rs 400

Address: 60, Saifee Jubilee Street, Second Lane, Kumbharwada, Grant Road, Mumbai

And for your share of Paya, Nalli Nihari, Kaleji, Sukha come to Surti’s 12 Handi. Open only after 7 PM, everything is slow cooked throughout the day and served for dinner. Years ago, Surat’s Muslim community came up with the concept of using 12 parts of the goat in individual dishes and that is the same concept incorporated by Bohri Mohalla’s Surti’s 12 Handi. We had Nihari and the flavour was bold, rich and meaty. Though I have to say I am not a huge fan of Nihari, so my experience was moderate.

JJ Jalebi

Cost for two: Rs 100

Address: 4, Pradhan Building, J.J. Junction, MS Ali Rd, Kumbharwada, Mumbai

Visibly much different from regular jalebi, the jalebi at JJ Jalebi is darker in colour, thicker and smaller. Made with Mawa, these are apparently the most popular ones in the area. From cab drivers to sevian vendors, everyone recommended the jalebis here. Other popular dishes here are Kala Jamun, Rabri and Shahi Tukda.

More than food, it was heartening to meet the nicest people in this busiest area of a busy city during such a busy time of the year. People had time to speak, give recommendations, smile and greet strangers like me. I felt, as if, the shopkeepers had taken it upon themselves that I have the best time discovering food in their area. So many of them, insisted on me having different types of Malpuas, Ice creams, Phirnis, Kebabs and some of them even refused to take money from me. Despite fasting for long hours, they never showed any signs of fatigue. They never forgot to smile at me and acknowledge my presence. Truly liberal, they welcomed everyone to celebrate their biggest festival – just what festivals are for and just how one should celebrate them. 




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